Solar power in Nigeria: a practical guide
If the grid keeps going off, solar with a battery can keep your lights, fans, fridge and devices running without fuel. It is a big purchase, so this guide explains how a system works, how to work out the size you need, and how to judge a quote before you pay.
Is solar right for you?
Solar makes most sense when outages are frequent, you spend a lot on fuel for a generator, or you run a business that loses money when power drops. It works best for steady everyday loads such as lighting, fans, TVs, laptops, routers, fridges and freezers.
It is harder for very heavy loads. Air conditioners, electric water heaters, cookers, irons and large pumps need a much bigger (and more expensive) system. Many households run solar for essentials and keep a generator as a backup for the rest.
How a solar system works
Every system has the same basic parts:
- Solar panels turn sunlight into direct current (DC) electricity.
- A charge controller (often MPPT type) manages how that power charges the battery, protecting it from overcharging.
- Batteries store energy so you have power at night and when the grid is off.
- An inverter converts battery DC into the alternating current (AC) your appliances use. Many modern units combine the inverter and charge controller.
- Protection and wiring: correctly sized cables, DC and AC isolators or breakers, surge protection, and proper earthing, plus a sturdy mounting frame for the panels.
Types of system
| Type | What it does | Works during an outage? |
|---|---|---|
| Off-grid | Panels, batteries and inverter with no grid connection. | Yes, as long as the batteries have charge. |
| Hybrid | Panels, batteries and an inverter that can also use the grid (and sometimes a generator). | Yes. This is the usual choice for homes with unreliable supply. |
| Grid-tied (no battery) | Panels feed the home and the grid. | No. Standard grid-tied inverters switch off when the grid is down for safety. |
If your main goal is keeping the lights on during outages, you need a battery. A grid-tied system without one will not help when NEPA takes the light.
How to work out the size you need
Do this before you talk to sellers, so you can check what they recommend. You are answering three questions: how much power do I need at once (inverter size), how much energy do I use per day (battery and panels), and how long do I want to run on battery.
- List every appliance you want to run and its power in watts (check the label or manual).
- Estimate how many hours each runs per day. For a fridge, use the hours it actually draws power (often around a third to a half of the day).
- Multiply watts by hours to get watt-hours (Wh) per day, then add them up. Add about 20-25% for system losses.
- Inverter size: add up the watts of everything that can run at the same time, then allow extra for motors (fridges, pumps, compressors) that draw a surge when they start. Ask the installer how the inverter handles surges.
- Battery size: divide the daily Wh you want to cover from the battery by the battery's usable capacity (the part of the rated capacity you can safely use). Lithium iron phosphate batteries typically allow deeper use than lead-acid.
- Panel size: divide the daily Wh by the usable sun hours and a loss factor. Much of Nigeria gets roughly 4 to 6 peak sun hours a day, less in the rainy season and during harmattan haze, so plan on the low side.
| Appliance | Watts | Hours/day | Wh/day |
|---|---|---|---|
| 6 LED bulbs (10 W each) | 60 | 6 | 360 |
| Fridge (running time) | 150 | 8 | 1,200 |
| TV and decoder | 80 | 5 | 400 |
| 3 fans (60 W each) | 180 | 6 | 1,080 |
| Laptop, router and phone charging | 100 | 4 | 400 |
| Total | 3,440 |
With about 22% for losses, that household needs roughly 4.2 kWh a day. At around 4.5 sun hours and typical losses, that points to roughly 1.2 to 1.5 kW of panels (three to four 400 W panels), an inverter in the 2 to 3 kVA range to cover surges, and a battery in the region of 5 kWh if you want to cover the whole day's use. Your appliances and location will differ, so treat this as a way to check a quote, not as a quote.
Choosing batteries
The battery is usually the most expensive part and the most common cause of disappointment, so spend time here.
- Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4): higher upfront cost, usually more charge cycles, deeper usable capacity, lighter and low maintenance.
- Tubular lead-acid (deep-cycle): lower upfront cost and widely available, but usually shorter life, shallower usable capacity (you should not drain them deeply) and more upkeep.
- Avoid ordinary car batteries for solar; they are not built for repeated deep discharge.
- Check the warranty in writing: how many years, how many cycles, and what the seller does if it fails.
Installation and safety
- Use an experienced installer. Battery banks and DC wiring can cause serious burns and fires if they are wrongly sized or poorly connected.
- Insist on correctly sized cables, proper DC and AC breakers or isolators, surge protection and proper earthing, especially with lightning risk.
- Panels need a solid, correctly braced frame that can handle wind, and a roof that can carry the load.
- Keep batteries in a ventilated, dry place away from direct heat, children and flammable items.
- Do not connect a solar system to the grid wiring yourself or bypass the changeover; mistakes can endanger people working on the lines.
Do not attempt high-voltage DC or battery wiring yourself unless you are trained. Unqualified installations are a leading cause of system failures and fires.
Keeping it working
- Clean panels when dusty, especially after harmattan. Do it early or late in the day, with water and a soft brush or cloth.
- Keep trees, new buildings and walls from shading the panels; even partial shade cuts output noticeably.
- Check cable connections, breakers and the battery area every few months for heat marks, corrosion, loose fittings or swelling.
- Learn the inverter's display and alarms, and note how much charge you normally have by evening so you can spot problems early.
- Keep your invoice, serial numbers and warranty papers together.
Understanding cost
Prices move with exchange rates and import costs, so we do not quote figures here. What you pay depends mainly on battery size, inverter size, the quality of components and installation work.
Get at least three written, itemised quotes for the same specification, then compare them line by line. Some providers offer instalment or pay-as-you-go plans; read the total you will pay over the full term, any fees and what happens if you miss payments.
Checklist: questions to ask any solar installer
- Will you visit the site and list my appliances before quoting?
- Is the quote itemised, with brand and model for panels, inverter, charge controller and batteries?
- What are the warranty terms for each part, and who handles claims?
- How long will the batteries last in my daily use, and what happens if they fail early?
- What protection (breakers, surge protection, earthing) is included?
- Can you show previous installations and give references I can call?
- What are the payment stages? (Avoid paying everything upfront.)
- What after-sales support and servicing do you provide?
Listed solar installers and sellers
Businesses are listed free after a quick review. UpNepa does not verify, recommend or guarantee any business here. Businesses marked Featured pay for extra visibility. Ask for references and get everything in writing before you pay.
No dealers are listed here yet. Are you a solar installer or seller? List your business for free.
Frequently asked questions
Can solar run my air conditioner?
Yes, but only with a much larger system. Air conditioners draw a lot of power and start with a surge, so you need a bigger inverter, more panels and more battery than for lights, fans and a fridge. Ask any seller how many hours they expect it to run and on what battery capacity.
Does solar work in the rainy season and during harmattan?
It still works, but output drops under heavy cloud and haze, and dust on the panels reduces it further. A well-sized system allows for this, which is why installers should plan with realistic, not peak, sun hours.
How long do panels and batteries last?
Manufacturer warranties on panels commonly run from about 10 to 25 years, while batteries usually last a shorter time that depends on type, use and temperature. Always check the actual warranty terms in writing.
Can I start small and add more later?
Often yes, if the inverter and charge controller are chosen with room to grow and any new panels or batteries match the existing ones. Ask your installer to design for expansion from the start.
How do I avoid being cheated?
Get itemised written quotes with brands and model numbers, check the installer's past work and references, avoid paying everything upfront, and be wary of promises such as running a large air conditioner all night on one or two panels.